Spatial variability of wave signatures and profile morphotypes of beaches in estuaries and bays across different tidal regimes
This study compares sandy beaches within estuaries and bays in a microtidal system (Pittwater, Sydney) and a mesotidal system (Ría de Vigo, Spain) to understand how waves, tides and sediment shape beach profiles. Swell waves dominate wave energy in both settings, but their relative contribution decreases further from the estuary entrance, where wind and infragravity … Read more…